Since we are just a few short weeks away from the end of our semester, Chuck and I have been talking about all the things we want to record that we have learned about living in Greece and studying abroad. Four months in a foreign country changes a person, without question. All those things people say about travel are true - to truly understand yourself, you have to be exposed to the new, different, and challenging things that only traveling can give.
I have learned so much from the professors I have had while here in Athens. They are all different and endearing in different ways. The academic things I have learned while standing on the actual archaeological sites, while struggling with different philosophies, forging relationships despite language challenges, and growing to love the differences of culture will forever be etched in my memory. There is no better place on earth to study philosophy, indeed, and no better place to immerse yourself in Orthodox Christianity than in Greece. I would highly recommend studying both the ancient Greek Religion (Mythology) along with Orthodox Christianity, as you need both to understand both to the full, in my view. Both these grand traditions inform modern Greek culture in ways that you can't know from a textbook.
If you will afford me the privilege to use a broad brush, I have found the Greek people to be gracious and warm, especially when their beloved sun is shining. And even though they don't smile as easily and readily as those of us from other countries, it doesn't mean that they are less 'gooey on the inside,' to quote a well-known movie. They are a passionate people, determined and efficient, and most of all practical. Their heritage gives everyone the latitude to be independent and self-motivated to live how they think best without being morally legislated by their officials. Having a state religion eliminates proselytizing and religious self-righteousness that can be seen in other cultures. They are proud of their heritage and their traditions - and it works just fine for them, thank you very much.
We have made friends here in Greece - Emma who is choosing to make Athens her home after growing up in the Pacific Northwest (US), Michel who is the best recruiter ever for his family (and our favorite) taverna, the interesting and entertaining wheelchair-bound beggar I have lovingly nicknamed "Bullet", and Stratos who works in his family's store called Byzantium in the famous Athens Flea Market off Monastiraki Square. I will never forget the lovely and kind couple who own Kekkos coffee shop and bakery, nor our friend Nikolas who always wanted to tease Chuck for making it rain because he was carrying an umbrella. I cannot tell you how it makes one feel when walking through a crowded foreign city and hear someone call out your name - it makes my heart swell and I fully enjoy being greeted with sincere smiles when passing my favorite clothing shop, or the familiar wave from our sweet icon artist a few doors down from our apartment. Yes, we have made friends here - and I am so grateful.
One of the lessons I learned is that the majority of vendors around the city, and in the touristy areas, are selling goods that they have made with their own hands. At first, I thought they they were just more of the mass-produced stuff we get in the states, but not so. Just about every vendor, with the exception of those selling knock-off Converse shoes and designer handbags, has spent time and effort designing and creating their goods. From painters and jewelry makers, to pottery and clothing, I have never seen such a variety of items for sale. And they are not overpricing their goods - they are fairly priced so they can sell!
So, on with the lessons learned. If you are planning on traveling to Greece or staying in Athens, you may find these tips useful.
First of all, you need to know that Greeks eat Greek food. Now, that may seem silly to say, but for those of us calling the US home, we eat all types of food from all areas of the world. Further, we even take culturally traditional foods from other countries, change it up a bit, and then call it our own (like Chinese-American food, or Mexican-American food...Tex-Mex, anyone?) This is not the case here in Athens, or any part of Greece. They eat a standard Mediterranean diet which includes lots of tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplant, carrots, cabbage, and various greens. Meats preferred include all types of seafood (octopus, all types of fish, and shellfish), along with lamb, beefsteak (hamburger patties, often stuffed), sausage and pork, and chicken. Bread is a big deal here, and if you are gluten-free or wheat sensitive you are going to struggle a bit eating here in Greece. Pastries with filo-type dough (think baklavah) are everywhere, along with cheese, especially feta, obviously. Potted specialties such as mousaka and stews are especially popular and rather good. Tourists favor souvlaki, which is grilled pork or chicken on a skewer, and gyros - the famous roasted meat shaved and served with pita bread. The biggies, though, include yogurt (the best ever!), honey (again, the BEST), olives and dips (olive tapenade, tzatziki, feta and pepper spread...yummy!), and olive oil on everything.
The menu is the same in all tavernas, for the most part. Really. The difference is the special family recipes and specials.
One more thing worth every penny - or lepta - is the wine. The wine produced in Greece is exceptional, even the lower-end options. I have been pleasantly surprised with all the house wines we have tried, as well as bottles purchased at wineries and wine shops. All have been good, so don't miss out on good local wine while in Greece.
Next, let's tackle
shopping. There are options: local street vendors with handmade items, souvenir shops with a lot of the same stuff made who-knows-where, specialty shops with clothing, jewelry, art and religious items (usually items made in Greece), and the chain stores that can be small or larger (offering cosmetics, clothing, shoes). Then there are pharmacies everywhere for anything you may need for medical or comfort needs. In all these options, browsers will be met by sales clerk and they will stay with you the whole time you are browsing their merchandise. Some may even talk you into buying their products - especially if you share what you are looking for. This is a cultural thing - they will stay close to you, and often sincerely want to help you find what you are looking for. It can be a little awkward for tourists who are used to browsing 'independently' from a sale clerk. This definitely took me a little getting used to, and sometimes clerks have actually discouraged me from shopping in their stores because of their perceived aggressive 'help.'
If I don't stop here and continue in another post, it will get way too long!
So, this will be continued...
